A summer kitchen evening: grilling Istrian style at the villa

Some of the best meals of a holiday in Istria happen at home. As the heat of the day fades, someone lights the grill, someone opens the wine, the children have one last swim, and twelve people sit down at a long table under the terrace. Here is how to plan an evening like that.

Which villa has what

• Villa Duga has a stone summer kitchen with a grill, made for long evenings with a big group.
• Villa Bina has a summer kitchen with a barbecue and a covered terrace.
• Villa Cvita Domenica has a barbecue and covered terrace.

Each villa also has a full indoor kitchen, so sides and desserts are easy.

The shopping list

Plan for about 300 to 400 g of fish or meat per adult, more if you have teenagers.

From the sea

• Whole sea bream (orada) or sea bass (brancin): one small fish per person, or larger fish to share
• Squid (lignje), cleaned
• Sardines (srdele) for a starter
• Prawns or scampi for a treat

From the land

• Ćevapi: small rolls of minced meat, a Croatian grill classic
• Pljeskavica: a large spiced patty
• Local sausages (kobasice)
• Pork chops or chicken for children

Vegetables and sides

• Courgettes, aubergines and peppers for grilling
• Blitva (Swiss chard) and potatoes
• Tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and lettuce
• Good bread, and a block of ajvar (red pepper relish) for the ćevapi

For where to buy, see our self-catering shopping guide and our guide to seafood in Istria.

Simple Istrian-style marinades

• For fish: olive oil, garlic, chopped parsley, salt, lemon. Brush on during cooking with a sprig of rosemary.
• For squid: olive oil, garlic, a little chilli. Grill fast and hot.
• For vegetables: olive oil, salt, a little garlic. Drizzle with more oil after grilling.

Use local extra virgin olive oil; it makes all the difference. See our olive oil guide.

The classic side: blitva

Blitva is the side dish served with grilled fish all along the Croatian coast. Boil potatoes in chunks, add chopped chard for the last few minutes, drain, and toss with plenty of olive oil, garlic and salt. Easy to make for twelve.

Timing the evening

1. 18:00 – light the grill (charcoal needs 30 to 40 minutes to settle).
2. 18:30 – snacks: pršut, cheese, olives and a glass of chilled Malvazija.
3. 19:00 – vegetables and sausages first, then fish when the coals are glowing but not flaming.
4. 20:00 – dinner at the long table as the sun goes down.
5. Later – fritule or watermelon, and a small glass of rakija for those who want it.

What to drink

A crisp Malvazija istarska with fish and vegetables, a slightly chilled Teran with meat. Read our guide to Istrian wine.

Good habits

• Keep children away from the grill, and never leave it unattended.
• On very windy or dry days, follow any local fire warnings.
• Let coals cool fully before disposing of them.
• Clean the grill while it is still warm; it is much easier.

Cooking for a big group? Our article on planning a villa holiday for 12 has more tips on shopping and sharing chores.