Seafood in Istria: what to order and how to buy it fresh

Istria lives with its face to the sea. Fishing boats still work out of Poreč, Novigrad and Rovinj, and the shellfish of the Lim bay are famous across Croatia. Seafood here is cooked simply, with good olive oil, garlic, parsley and lemon, and that is the point: the fish is fresh enough not to need more.

What to order

Whole grilled fish

The classic. Choose from the day’s catch: sea bream (orada), sea bass (brancin), dentex (zubatac) or red mullet (trlja). It arrives grilled, drizzled with olive oil and served with blitva (chard and potatoes). Ask the waiter to fillet it if you prefer.

Squid and cuttlefish

Grilled squid (lignje na žaru) is on every menu. Black risotto (crni rižot) is made with cuttlefish and its ink: rich, salty and delicious, though it will turn your teeth black for a while.

Shellfish and scampi

• Mussels (dagnje) and clams cooked buzara style, in white wine, garlic and parsley.
• Scampi (škampi), grilled or buzara; the Adriatic scampi from the nearby Kvarner gulf are prized.
• Oysters (kamenice) and mussels from the Lim bay, eaten raw with lemon or lightly cooked. See our Lim bay and Vrsar guide.

Small fish and starters

• Fried small fish (girice or pržena riba), eaten whole.
• Marinated anchovies (inćuni) and sardines.
• Octopus salad (salata od hobotnice) with potatoes, onions and olive oil.
• Fish soup, a light broth often served before the main course.

Understanding the menu

• Price per kilo. Fresh whole fish and some shellfish are often listed per kilogram. Ask how much your fish weighs, or tell the waiter your budget. It avoids surprises.
• Grade. Menus may divide fish into first-class (larger white fish) and second-class (smaller or oily fish such as sardines and mackerel). Second-class fish is cheaper and often just as tasty.
• Fresh or frozen. Menus usually mark frozen products, often with an asterisk. If in doubt, ask.

Buying fish to cook at the villa

• The fish market (ribarnica) in Poreč, next to the town market, is the place to go. Go in the morning, when the boats’ catch is on the ice.
• Look for clear eyes, red gills and firm flesh. Ask the fishmonger to clean and scale it; most will.
• Supermarkets also have fish counters if the market is closed.

Grilling at home? Our summer kitchen guide has a shopping list and marinades for a group.

What to drink

A crisp, young Malvazija istarska is made for Istrian seafood. Read more in our guide to Istrian wine.

Where to eat

• Harbour towns: Poreč, Novigrad, Vrsar and Rovinj all have seafood restaurants along the water.
• The Lim bay: restaurants by the water serve oysters and mussels straight from the farms.
• Inland konobas focus on meat, truffles and pasta, but some also serve fish, especially on Fridays. See what is a konoba.

Our villas are 10 to 20 minutes from the harbours of Poreč and Novigrad: Villa Duga in Špadići, and Villa Bina and Villa Cvita Domenica in Labinci.