The Parenzana: cycling the old railway from Trieste to Poreč

From 1902 to 1935, a little narrow-gauge train wound its way across north-west Istria between Trieste and Poreč (Parenzo in Italian, which gave the line its name). It was slow, but for the villages of inland Istria it was a lifeline for wine, olive oil and people. Today the old trackbed is the Parenzana, one of the best-known cycle routes in the region.

The facts

• Railway in service: the first train ran on 1 April 1902, the last on 31 August 1935.
• Length: 123.1 km in all, with about 13 km in Italy, 32 km in Slovenia and 78 km in Croatia.
• Engineering: 9 tunnels with a total length of about 1.5 km, and 6 viaducts, all between Buje and Poreč.
• Waymarking: yellow signposts mark the trail.

Because the line was built for steam trains, the gradients are gentle, even where it climbs around the hills. That makes it more manageable than most rides in hilly inland Istria.

The best sections in Istria

Vižinada to Motovun and Livade

The most popular section for a day ride. The trail runs through vineyards and oak woods, crosses viaducts with views over the Mirna valley and passes through a tunnel beneath Motovun. Leave time to climb up to the walled town (on foot or by bike), then roll down to Livade, where a small Parenzana museum tells the railway’s story. In autumn, Livade is also the place for truffles.

Towards Grožnjan and Buje

North of Livade the trail continues below the hilltop town of Grožnjan and on towards Buje, with wide views across the north of the peninsula.

Near Poreč

The southern end of the line approached Poreč through the countryside east of town. This part is less spectacular, but it makes an easy introduction close to the coast.

Practical tips

• Surface: much of the Croatian section is gravel or compacted earth. Use a mountain, trekking or gravel bike rather than a road bike.
• Lights: some tunnels are long and dark. Bring front and rear lights.
• Water and food: there are few shops along the trail. Carry water, especially in summer, and plan lunch in a village.
• When to go: spring and autumn are ideal. In July and August, ride early in the morning.
• One way: many riders arrange a lift or taxi back, or ride a section out and back.
• E-bikes: available from rental shops in the Poreč area and inland. They turn a hard day into a pleasant one.

Combine it with

The Parenzana links several highlights of inland Istria. Combine a ride with a visit to Motovun, lunch in a konoba, or a wider hilltop towns day. For shorter rides closer to the coast, read cycling around Poreč.

Where to stay

From Villa Bina and Villa Cvita Domenica in Labinci, the inland stretch of the Parenzana is a short drive away. All our villas have private parking; ask us about storing bikes when you book.